Vegan vs cruelty-free – Why third-party vegan certification is key
The global vegan cosmetics market is projected to reach a staggering $32.5 billion by 2032, but as demand grows, so does the need to provide consumers with symbols they can trust and recognise.
What does ‘cruelty-free’ mean?
A product labelled as ‘cruelty-free’ focuses exclusively on one ethical consideration: the absence of animal testing. The increase on popularity of this term is part of the growing consumer demand for more ethical beauty products. However, this designation tells only part of the story.
The ‘cruelty-free’ term comes with some significant limitations that consumers should understand:
- Ingredient origins: While the final product may not undergo animal testing, it can still contain animal-derived ingredients and by-products like beeswax or carmine.
- Historical testing: Some certification programmes permit brands to use a ‘Fixed Cut-Off Date’ (FCOD)* after which they will not conduct any further testing, erasing previous animal testing history after reaching a certain deadline.
- Market contradictions: Some products labelled as ‘cruelty-free’ could still be sold in countries like China where post-market animal testing has historically been required by law, creating a conflict between claims and practices.
* A Fixed Cut-Off Date (FCOD) is a date after which a company will no longer test a product (and sometimes its ingredients) on animals and has been used in the UK and EU as a way for brands to comply with new regulations and enforce their new internal policies.
This means that a ‘cruelty-free‘ labelled product might not have been directly tested on animals, but it could still contain a range of animal ingredients that all involve animal exploitation. See listed below some of these ingredients (note, this is not an exhaustive list):
- Cera Alba/Beeswax: This is used as an agent to prevent liquids from separating. Used in lip balms, soaps and moisturisers, it can help the skin retain moisture.
- Collagen: A protein taken from the bones, skin, ligaments and tissues of cows to be used in many face creams.
- Keratin: A protein derived from animal hair, horns and feathers. It’s commonly found in hair strengthening products, treatments, shampoos, conditioners and nail hardeners.
- Guanine: Make-up products such as eyeshadows and highlighters use an animal-derived ingredient called guanine to achieve a shimmering effect but this is harvested from fish scales.
- Tallow: Made from the fat of farmed animals, this ingredient can be found in soap and foundation among other products.
- Carmine: A red pigment made from crushed cochineal insects. It’s commonly found in lipsticks, blushes and red-coloured cosmetics.
- Castoreum: A secretion from beavers’ scent glands that’s used in perfumes and fragrances as a fixative and for its musky, vanilla-like scent in high-end perfumes.
Vegan beauty – What does ‘vegan’ mean?
According to the original standards set by The Vegan Society’s Vegan Trademark, saying that a product is vegan means that it doesn’t contain any animal-derived ingredients and has not been tested on animals by the company or on its behalf.
Unfortunately, due to a lack of labelling regulations and requirements, mislabelling of products often happens. For conscientious consumers seeking genuine assurance that their purchases don’t include animal-derived ingredients or animal testing, reliable third-party certifications provide essential verification.
Self-labelling vs third-party certification
A very common struggle for consumers shopping beauty products is encountering unfamiliar terminology when ingredients are listed under their botanical or Latin names (e.g. ‘Cera Alba’, also known as beeswax). This complicates the process of identifying animal ingredients on a product.
Many brands choose to self-certify their vegan products, and although it is – for some brands – a simple way to indicate their products are vegan, there are so some downsides to self-labelling:
- There is no legal definition of ‘vegan’ and the term is not specifically regulated under the EU Cosmetics Products Regulation, meaning a brand might not identify certain products as not-vegan.
- Not all companies that make vegan products are experts in identifying non-vegan ingredients or might just not have the capacity to thoroughly check and understand the origins and processes of their ingredients.
- Not being backed by a trusted and recognised external vegan certification might result in a lack of trust from consumers, as there won’t be a defined set of standards that they can refer to understand the brand’s criteria.
Using third-party vegan certification is an efficient way to provide shoppers with clarity and a symbol they can trust and recognise at a glance.
“The use of the term ‘vegan’ is now increasingly expanding not only to food but also fashion and beauty. Vegan certification helps consumers easily check and purchase vegan products by giving credibility to them.” – A representative for Aromatica, a Vegan Trademark holder.
Vegan Trademark – The gold standard
Established in 1990, the Vegan Trademark was created by The Vegan Society to offer clarity and guarantee that registered products meet strict criteria. It has been the gold standard in comprehensive vegan certification since it was established, ensuring every accredited product meets the following standards:
- No animal-derived ingredients: Containing no animal-derived ingredients or by-products in the finished product or anywhere along the supply chain.
- No animal testing: The development and/or manufacture of the product, and its ingredients, must not involve or have involved, testing of any sort on animals conducted at the initiative of the company or on its behalf, or by parties over whom the company has effective control.
- Has been thoroughly verified through our rigorous certification process, where our experts examine every ingredient and its source.
- Is not sold in markets where post-market animal testing is required by law.
“We value the Vegan Trademark’s rigorous auditing process, which ensures that our products meet their strict standards. The Vegan Society’s internationally recognised certification symbol helps our customers identify our vegan products easily, making it easier for them to make informed choices. It also helps us stand out from other products in the market.” – A representative from Dear Dahlia.
“Moreover, The Vegan Society is a well-respected and established organisation and being certified by them adds credibility and legitimacy to our brand. We are proud to be associated with The Vegan Society and to offer our customers products that are not only high-quality but also cruelty-free and vegan.”
Brands that #SayVegan are leading the way
We had the pleasure of gathering the thoughts and expertise of several vegan cosmetics brands on the usage of the term ‘vegan’ and what it has meant for them.